Founded in Tokyo in 1969, Comme des Garçons (CdG) is the brainchild of visionary designer Rei Kawakubo, whose avant-garde ethos has given birth to a constellation of sub-labels, each with its own distinct identity. From the iconic heart-logoed basics of Comme des Garçons PLAY to the boundary-pushing menswear of Homme Plus and the minimalist edge of BLACK CdG, these sub-brands make Kawakubo’s vision accessible to all styles of fashion enthusiasts. This editorial delves into the Comme des Garçons multiverse, highlighting the distinctive sub-labels that have propelled the brand to become a global fashion powerhouse, offering insights into their designs, collaborations, and cultural influence.

Exploring the Sub-Labels

Comme des Garçons has a sprawling universe of sub-labels, each a distinct star in the brand’s avant-garde galaxy. These diffusion lines translate Kawakubo’s radical ethos into wearable forms, catering to everyone from high-fashion collectors to streetwear aficionados. From the iconic heart logo of Comme des Garçons Play to the experimental menswear of Homme Plus, each sub-label carries CdG’s DNA—deconstruction, innovation, and defiance of convention—while carving its own niche. Sold at global retailers, these lines make CdG’s artistry accessible without sacrificing its edge. Below, we explore the key sub-labels that define the CdG multiverse, spotlighting their unique designs, cultural impact, and why they matter to fashion lovers.

Comme des Garçons Homme (1978): Timeless Menswear with a Twist

Launched in 1978, Comme des Garçons Homme was CdG’s first diffusion line, bringing Kawakubo’s vision to menswear with a deceptively restrained approach. Think classic tailoring—crisp blazers, tailored trousers—but infused with subtle rebellion, like unexpected textures or asymmetrical cuts. Often designed in collaboration with protégé Junya Watanabe, this line strikes a balance between sophistication and CdG’s avant-garde DNA, appealing to those seeking CdG menswear that’s wearable yet distinctive. Homme’s collections emphasize quality fabrics and Japanese craftsmanship, making it a go-to for professionals who want an understated edge. From wool overcoats to reimagined dress shirts, Comme des Garçons Homme proves that minimal doesn’t mean ordinary, offering timeless pieces for the modern wardrobe.

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus (1984): Avant-Garde Menswear Redefined

This sub-label is the heart of Comme des Garçons’ experimental menswear. Launched in 1984, Homme Plus is renowned for its broken tailoring—a style characterized by deconstructed suits, oversized silhouettes, and bold fabrics that challenge traditional notions of masculinity. Its Paris Fashion Week shows, like the Spring/Summer 2025 collection with vibrant checked patterns, mirror the mainline’s conceptual daring, attracting avant-garde enthusiasts and collectors like Michelle Elie. Homme Plus pieces, from sculptural jackets to metallic trousers, are more about wearable art than everyday wear. This sub-label embodies CdG’s refusal to conform, making it a must-know for fans of avant-garde menswear and boundary-pushing fashion.

Comme des Garçons Homme Deux (1987): Playful Formalwear

Introduced in 1987, Comme des Garçons Homme Deux takes business suiting to unexpected places. Designed for the corporate world, it infuses formalwear with Japanese influences and whimsical details—oversized buttons, asymmetrical lapels, or bold linings that peek out from classic navy suits. Homme Deux offers a playful yet polished aesthetic, blending tradition with Kawakubo’s subversive touch. Its collections appeal to professionals who want to stand out without being overly conspicuous. From structured blazers to tailored trousers, Homme Deux redefines business casual with a distinctly CdG flair, making it a hidden gem in the brand’s portfolio.

Comme des Garçons SHIRT (1988): Reimagining the Everyday

Since its debut in 1988, Comme des Garçons SHIRT has transformed the humble button-up shirt into a canvas for creativity. Search “CdG SHIRT features crisp cotton shirts with unexpected twists—patchwork patterns, bold prints, or asymmetrical hems. Later expanding to include jackets, trousers, and accessories, this sub-label offers whimsical, wearable pieces that bridge the gap between avant-garde and everyday style. SHIRT appeals to those seeking CdG casual fashion with a touch of artistry. Its collaborations, such as those with Supreme, amplify its streetwear credibility, making it a favorite among fashion fans who seek versatile pieces that still feel unique. Comme des Garçons SHIRT proves that even the basics can be extraordinary.

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons (1993): Accessible Womenswear

Nicknamed “Comme Comme,” Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons, launched in 1993, brings Kawakubo’s vision to womenswear with a softer, more approachable edge. Following the discontinuation of the Robe de Chambre line, it offers elegant yet deconstructed pieces—think flowing dresses, tailored jackets, and layered knits—that resonate with those seeking CdG womenswear. Comme Comme balances simplicity with CdG’s signature asymmetry, making it ideal for women who want wearable art. Its minimalist palette and versatile designs appeal to both longtime CdG fans and newcomers, offering a gateway into the brand’s aesthetic without the runway’s intensity. For “CdG accessible fashion,” Comme Comme is a standout.

Comme des Garçons Play (2002): The Heart of CdG

Arguably CdG’s most recognizable sub-label, Comme Des Garçons PLAY launched in 2002, is a global phenomenon. Its iconic heart logo, designed by Filip Pagowski, adorns seasonless basics—T-shirts, hoodies, sneakers—that dominate everyday fashion. Play’s minimalist, unisex designs appeal to streetwear fans and celebrities. Collaborations with Converse and Nike have cemented its cultural cachet, making it CdG’s most commercially successful line. Affordable yet unmistakably CdG, Play’s playful aesthetic—think bold red hearts on black tees—makes it a must-have for anyone exploring CdG for the first time or seeking iconic, everyday fashion.

BLACK Comme des Garçons (2008): Minimalist Edge

Launched in 2008, BLACK Comme des Garçons is the brand’s answer to affordable, dark-toned style. This unisex line features minimalist pieces—black tees, tailored jackets, sleek trousers—with a gothic, street-ready edge. BLACK CdG offers accessible price points without sacrificing Kawakubo’s vision. With clean lines and monochromatic palettes, BLACK CdG is ideal for those who want CdG’s aesthetic in a versatile, everyday package, blending high fashion with urban cool.

Other Notable Lines: Knitwear, Goth, and Protégés

The CdG multiverse extends further with specialized sub-labels. Tricot Comme des Garçons (1981) focuses on innovative knitwear, offering cozy yet avant-garde sweaters and cardigans. Noir Kei Ninomiya (2012), led by Kawakubo’s protégé, delivers goth-inspired designs with intricate textures, appealing to fans of “CdG avant-garde fashion.” Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons (1992), another protégé-led line, combines technical innovation with bold aesthetics, making it a favorite among Junya Watanabe fashion enthusiasts. These lines showcase CdG’s unique mentorship model, fostering talents like Watanabe, Tao Kurihara, and Kei Ninomiya to create under the CdG umbrella, each adding a distinct voice to the brand’s legacy.

The CdG Mentorship Model: Fostering Creative Talent

Unlike traditional fashion houses, Comme des Garçons nurtures emerging designers, giving them creative freedom under its banner. Junya Watanabe, Kei Ninomiya, and Tao Kurihara have launched their own sub-labels, blending personal visions with CdG’s ethos. This model ensures the brand remains a hotbed of innovation. Watanabe’s technical mastery, Ninomiya’s dark romanticism, and Kurihara’s delicate femininity enrich the CdG multiverse, making it a dynamic force in the global fashion landscape. For readers exploring “Rei Kawakubo mentorship,” this approach underscores CdG’s commitment to pushing boundaries through collaboration and creativity.

Collaborations: Bridging High Fashion and Streetwear

Under Rei Kawakubo’s visionary direction, CdG’s partnerships with brands like Nike, Converse, Supreme, BAPE, and Louis Vuitton have transformed obscure silhouettes and everyday staples into coveted pieces of wearable art. These collaborations, often spearheaded by sub-labels like Comme des Garçons Play and BLACK CdG, make the brand’s avant-garde ethos accessible to younger audiences, from streetwear fans to celebrity trendsetters. Whether it’s the iconic heart-logoed Converse Chuck 70s or the minimalist BLACK CdG x HOKA sneakers, these releases prove CdG’s unmatched ability to bridge elite runways and urban streets. Below, we dive into the key partnerships that define CdG’s collaborative legacy and their seismic impact on global fashion culture.

CdG’s collaborations are a masterclass in merging high fashion’s artistry with streetwear’s accessibility, creating pieces that resonate across demographics. The partnership with Converse, which began in 2009, is perhaps the most iconic, with Comme des Garçons Play’s red heart logo, designed by Filip Pagowski, adorning Chuck Taylor All Star 70s. Available in high- and low-top versions, these sneakers—searchable as “CdG Converse heart”—feature bold patches or subtle heart peeks, blending Converse’s heritage with CdG’s playful edge.

Why the Sub-Labels Matter

Lines like Comme des Garçons Play, with its iconic heart-logo tees and Converse collabs, democratize CdG’s avant-garde ethos, making it accessible to streetwear fans searching “CdG fashion influence.” Affordable and wearable, Play’s basics bring Rei Kawakubo’s vision to the masses, while Homme Plus pushes boundaries with sculptural runway looks that inspire gender-fluid fashion and avant-garde collectors. Sub-labels like Noir Kei Ninomiya and Junya Watanabe CdG showcase CdG’s mentorship model, nurturing emerging designers who redefine style.

Recent highlights, such as the Spring/Summer 2025 collections featuring bold checked patterns and the 2023 Paris store opening, keep CdG at the forefront of fashion. Looking ahead, the brand’s digital expansion, like the CDG online-only brand launched in 2018, and new collaborations signal a vibrant future. 

The World of CdG, Unfolded

Comme des Garçons is a universe unto itself, with sub-labels like Play, Homme Plus, and BLACK CdG weaving a tapestry of avant-garde artistry and everyday wearability. From Play’s heart-logoed streetwear to Homme Plus’s runway-defying silhouettes, these lines make Rei Kawakubo’s vision a global phenomenon, resonating with everyone from collectors to casual fans. Each sub-label carries CdG’s rebellious DNA, redefining style for diverse audiences. Whether you’re a longtime fan or new to exploring Comme des Garçons, CdG’s sub-labels invite you to embrace individuality and creativity.